Luxury Watch Servicing: When, Why, and Where for Your Collection

A mechanical watch is a precision instrument containing hundreds of individually finished components that must work in concert to maintain accuracy and reliability over decades. Periodic maintenance is not optional — it is essential to both the performance and the long-term value of any serious collection.

When to service

The traditional recommendation is every 3–5 years for a mechanical watch. In practice, a well-made modern movement with contemporary lubricants can run longer without issues in a dry, stable environment. The indicators that service is overdue: the watch is running significantly fast or slow relative to its rated accuracy, the power reserve has decreased noticeably from new, the watch has been exposed to water beyond its rated depth, or it has received a significant impact. For vintage watches — particularly those that have not been serviced in many years — the rule is simpler: service them before the lubricants dry out and cause wear. Dry lubricants cause more internal damage than slightly degraded wet lubricants.

What a full service involves

Complete disassembly of the movement, ultrasonic cleaning of all components, inspection under magnification for wear or damage, replacement of worn parts (gaskets, worn jewels, any damaged components), application of fresh manufacturer-specified lubricants in correct quantities and locations, reassembly, timing and regulation, and quality control over several days of wearing. For complex movements — perpetual calendars, minute repeaters, tourbillons — this process requires many hours of highly skilled work. The case and bracelet are polished or satin-finished as part of the service. Request explicitly that the original surface finish is preserved rather than over-polished — aggressive polishing removes metal and makes older watches look unnaturally new.

Manufacturer service vs independent

Manufacturer service centres guarantee genuine parts and protect any remaining warranty. However, they can be expensive, slow (3–6 month turnarounds are not uncommon), and sometimes replace components that don't need replacement. Independent watchmakers who specialise in your specific brand offer faster turnaround, more individual attention, and often better value. For watches above £20,000 in value, we recommend manufacturer service for warranty protection and documentation purposes. For watches outside warranty where you have a trusted independent relationship, that route is often superior in practice.