Eleven Madison Park's Radical Plant-Forward Reinvention

Daniel Humm's dining room on Madison Square Park has the proportions of a cathedral and the hush of a library. The service is so refined as to be invisible — you realise only later, recounting the meal, how precisely every need was anticipated.

A Menu Without Compromise

The current menu opens with a mushroom broth of startling depth — a reminder that umami is not the exclusive province of meat. A course of black truffle and celeriac arrives next, shaved tableside from a whole truffle the size of a tennis ball. The effect is theatrical; the flavour is transcendent.

“Humm has proved that restraint, applied with enough intelligence, is its own form of abundance.”

The Wine Programme

Wine director Ariel Arce has assembled a 3,000-label cellar weighted toward Burgundy and the Jura. The sommelier pairing at $225 is exceptional value at this level; ask for the non-alcoholic pairing if you want to understand how good fermented beverages can be without a drop of alcohol.